A Mechanical Watch that Feels as Sophisticated as a Smartwatch

You could either strap a screen to your wrist to look hip and voguish, or you could wear a classic timepiece to look… well… classic. There are rarely any crossovers in this department, which means you’ll seldom find a smartwatch that can look as exemplary as a Swiss timepiece, and you’re rarely going to stumble across a well-built mechanical wristwatch that can pull off the savvy, cool look the way a smartwatch can.

The crossover is rare, but it exists. Take for instance the Edgemere Reserve from Martenero, a classic mechanical timepiece that consciously deviates from the mechanical watch aesthetic, looking modern on your wrist, but staying true to its mechanical roots on the inside. A variant of the original Edgemere, the Edgemere Reserve, as its name suggests, comes with a 40-hour power reserve. With a clean design and a circular body, the Edgemere Reserve sits well on your wrist in any social gathering, both formal and informal. The CMF detailing brings out the watch’s modernity, with a watch-face that has an embossed stripe texture, and a fresh, eyecatching color scheme that plays with blacks, whites, blues, and reds.

The watch comes with a Miyota 9132 on the inside and multiple complications, including a date-window, a 24-hour dial, and even a dial that indicates the amount of power left in the reserve. The 316L case comes with a double-domed sapphire crystal glass on the top (complete with an anti-reflection coating) as well as a sapphire glass exhibition back. You’re even spoilt for choice with a wide variety of hypoallergenic leather straps that come in some spectacularly rich colors. Every single one of Martenero’s watches is assembled and tested in the USA, at a second-generation watchmaker workshop right out of Brooklyn. Subjected to a world-class level of scrutiny and quality testing, each Edgemere Reserve timepiece comes with a 2-year warranty.

Designer: John Tarantino

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Martenero’s latest release is the Edgemere Reserve. A new version of their original Edgemere model, it’s a 40 mm nautical-themed watch inspired by the marine chronometer. It includes a power reserve, 24-hour time subdial, and date window.

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The design of the watch is loosely based on a marine chronometer. At the heart of the design is the dial. An elevated hour ring stands out against the base of the dial, and for each colorway the hour ring contrasts noticeably with both the interior and outer ring. This adds a lot of complexity and nuance to the design, and helps give it such an original look. They then added very distinctive colors to each dial in order to better highlight certain design features. Every piece of the dial design is unique to Martenero.

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They then made sure that all of the hands are all balanced and work in harmony together. Since there are five hands in total (hour, minute, second, power reserve, 24-hour time), it was important to get this detail right as any inconsistency would throw the design out of balance.

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While it’s one design, the five different options feel like totally different watches. There’s white if you’re looking for something understated; blue or dark blue if you want something sporty; silver for something a little more dressy; or black if you prefer a look that’s a little more stark.

BLUE

Our flagship version of the Edgemere Reserve, this is the most colorful and eye-catching version of them all. The multi-colored dial stands out on the wrist, but still maintains its balance through the carefully selected colors.

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WHITE

Our most restrained version, the white dial is perfect for those who prefer something a little more understated on their wrist. Despite its low-key design, the blue and red accents give the watch a very unique look.

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SILVER

The dressiest version of them all. Bursts of silver and light blue give the watch a dressy touch that makes it perfect for any occasion.

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DARK BLUE

The deep blue color on this dial is for those who want something sporty yet versatile. Touches of red break up the otherwise all blue aesthetic.

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BLACK

In contrast to our more colorful options, the black version is for those who prefer to wear something a little more stark. Touches of blue and mint add character to the otherwise subdued looking watch.

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POWER RESERVE

The watch has a 40-hour power reserve, and through the index at the top of the watch you can always see exactly how much of a charge you have built up. The hand will be pointed to the right at a full charge, straight down when it’s halfway charged, and to the left when the charge is running low.

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24 HOUR TIME

This is a subdial (dial within a dial) that sits at the 6 o’clock position. It doesn’t ever need to be adjusted, and gives a representation of the time in a 24 hours context.

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DATE WINDOW

A clean, framed date window sits at the 3 o’clock position, not only displaying the date but also helping to balance the dial design.

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The dial has three layers between the base, hour ring, and applied numerals. This creates a visual stacking effect on the dial which is not seen on most watches. We then added texture to the base layer of the dial, framed the date window, and selected colors that best complement the design. It’s a very complicated construction that brings out the details in this design.

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The case is made of stainless steel, and it’s an original design with both brushed and polished finishing. The crystal is a double-domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating, which means that it won’t get scratched and there won’t be any reflection or glare when you’re checking the time.

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The Edgemere Reserve is powered by a Miyota 9132 movement that registers at 28,800 beats per hour. This is a very high-quality Japanese movement used by premium watch brands, and it’s similar in accuracy to much more expensive Swiss movements.

One feature of the movement is that it’s automatic, so it will wind itself naturally as you wear it. It’s also hacking, meaning that the second hand stops when you set the time, allowing for more accurate time setting. And with a power reserve of 40 hours, this is a watch you can set aside for a while and it will continue to tick.

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